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The Qd32 (i think) was in the R50. 4 cyl diesel turbo. Japan and other foreign markets had them. Best bet would be to call an engine importer and get a full front clip (you'll need the gauge cluster). Then you'll need to convert the fuel system. Hardest part might be the wiring, unless the chassis wiring is the same in the other markets. Jose Spot on, the QD32det came standard in the R50 Terrano, they werent offered with a 5 speed, but the 5 speed out of the WD21 Terrano will bolt straight up.

Thanks for the info and encouragement.From what I have found out the Qd33 is a R50 series engine as the vg33e engine that is in my pathinder also is in that engine category. I just need to confirm the following to begin this project: 1) That the motor mounts are the same for both engines, which I believe they are. 2) That I can bolt up to my 5 speed manual transmission which if these are the same engine class they should be the same.

(Will search for specific dimensions of both bolt up patterns and clearances) 3) What is involved with setting up the ECU and how easy to integrate into my current electronics system? Gigaware usb to ethernet windows 7 driver. This may not be able to be answered without just 'doing it' Seems like the perfect combo, Pathfinder and Diesel power.' Fingers crossed this is a doable conversion'. Here's the skinny on diesel motors in the R50 Terrano.

There were three different engines, depending on the production year: MY '95 - '97 - TD27T 2.7L inline-4 turbo (same as that in the WD21 Terrano) MY '98 - '99 - QD32ETI 3.2L inline-4 turbo (electronic injection, intercooled turbine) MY '99 - '04 - ZD30DDTi Neo-Di 3.0L inline-4 turbo (direct injection, intercooled turbine) All three can be made to work in the R50 Pathfinder with modest modification. The only real issue I see would be the location of the brake booster on the JDM models. It is positioned on the right-hand side, whereas ours is placed on the left-hand side.

Here's a shot of a QD-equipped R50 engine bay: Besides that, it seems like a pretty simple and straight-forward swap. Its not a Nissan engine, but if you go for a Cummins 4BT you will be rewarded with stump pulling torque and unsurpassed reliability. Its a 3.9L OHV 2V/cylinder turbocharged direct injected 4 banger with 360 ft/lbs of torque before 2,000 RPM in stock form. If you tune the Bosch VE pump it will probably put down more like 450 ft lbs with no mods. All that is required for the mod is a screwdriver. I am not familiar with the 4BT directly, but I used to own its bigger brother, the Cummins 6BT which is essentially the same engine with 2 extra cylinders. Everything else is interchangeable between the two and the 6BT engine was a beast.

They even share the same 4.02' x 4.72' bore and stroke. You will probably need to do more fabrication to get the motor and transmission to fit and match up with the driveline, but you won't have any electronics to work with. All you need to worry about is the wiring for the starter, the alternator, the external voltage regulator (Unless you swap the alternator for a later model Dodge unit with internal regulator) and a simple SPST or toggle switch for the intake heater. Other than that everything is mechanical, so you don't have any messy wiring harnesses to worry about.

The 4BT is a popular swap for half-ton American trucks like Bronco's, but its also been used in Rangers, Wranglers and the like with great results. They were originally designed for large delivery vans, construction equipment, and farming equipment. Cummins recommends 400,000 miles between overhauls for best performance, even with its non-sleeved block. With a claim like that, you know they aren't messing around. Match the 4BT to a Getrag 5 speed transmission, pick an aftermarket clutch from just about any Dodge Ram diesel, bolt up a transfer case, fab some new driveshafts, fab the mounts, plumb all your lines, take the truck to an exhaust shop and call it a day. The downside is the 4BT engine alone weighs nearly 750 pounds, but its built like a brick crap-house. You might find that its too much torque for the driveline, but I've never heard anyone complain about having too much torque.

The last downside I can think of is the redline. The engine will only rev to 2,800 RPM, but with a simple governor spring modification you can run 3,200 RPM with a brick on the gas pedal for weeks on end and the motor won't stop 'till it's out of gas.